If you’ve been following along, you know my Ireland adventure started in Belfast with leaning clock towers, a sobering courthouse trial, and my first (and last) Guinness. But if you’re new here – welcome! Today’s story takes us from Belfast to Derry, through Glenveagh National Park, and finally to Donegal. It was a day that blended pop culture, painful history, breathtaking landscapes, and a little bit of K‑pop (yes, really).
Why Derry Was a Must for Me
When I was choosing between Ireland itineraries, the deciding factor wasn’t castles or cliffs – it was Derry Girls. If you haven’t seen it, it’s a Netflix comedy set in the 1990s during The Troubles, following a group of teenage girls (and one very out‑of‑place English boy) as they navigate Catholic school, family chaos, and the absurdities of growing up. It’s hilarious, heartfelt, and somehow manages to weave humor into a backdrop of conflict.
So when I saw that this itinerary included a stop in Derry, I was sold. Sometimes travel decisions are made by guidebooks. Sometimes they’re made by sitcoms.
First Impressions: The Walled City
Derry, also known as Londonderry, is nicknamed The Walled City because it’s one of the few places in Europe where the original city walls remain completely intact. Built in the early 1600s, the walls encircle the old city, stretching about a mile in circumference. Walking them feels like stepping back in time, with panoramic views of the city below.
Our local guide, Rory, met us at the bus and led us straight into the heart of the city. And almost immediately, I spotted it: a massive mural of the Derry Girls. Cue me geeking out, straying from the group, and snapping photos like a true fangirl. No regrets.
Walking the Walls and Facing History
From there, Rory led us up onto the walls. As we walked, he shared stories of Derry’s layered history – sieges, politics, and the more recent scars of The Troubles.
One of the most powerful moments was standing above the road where the events of Bloody Sunday unfolded in 1972. On that day, British soldiers shot 26 unarmed civilians during a protest march against internment (imprisonment without trial). Fourteen people died. It became one of the darkest chapters of The Troubles and a turning point in the conflict.
Rory explained how, decades later, in 2010, the British Prime Minister issued a formal apology after a long investigation concluded the killings were unjustified. Hearing this while standing on the very ground where it happened was sobering. And it connected directly to what we’d seen the day before in Belfast – the trial of “Soldier F,” one of the soldiers involved. Suddenly, the history wasn’t abstract. It was immediate, tangible, and still unfolding.
Balancing History with Humor
Of course, I couldn’t resist peppering Rory with questions about Derry Girls. Did people in Derry love the show? Did they think it captured the spirit of the city? He laughed and indulged me, answering patiently while also weaving in more history. That’s the thing about Derry – it’s a place where humor and hardship coexist, where murals of teenage sitcom characters stand not far from memorials to tragedy.
Free Time in Derry
After the tour, we had free time to explore. I decided to grab a sandwich to eat later on the bus so I could maximize my time wandering the city. I strolled through the streets, snapping photos of murals, shopfronts, and the walls themselves. Derry felt alive – historic but not stuck in the past, resilient and vibrant.
Glenveagh National Park: Castles and Wild Landscapes
From Derry, we drove into County Donegal to visit Glenveagh National Park, the second‑largest national park in Ireland, covering nearly 170 square kilometers of rugged mountains, lakes, and boglands. At its heart is Glenveagh Castle, a 19th‑century mansion built on the shores of Lough Veagh. The castle is surrounded by lush gardens filled with exotic plants, a striking contrast to the wild, untamed landscape around it.
We started at the visitor center with a short film about the park’s history. Glenveagh has its share of drama – its original owner, John George Adair, was infamous for evicting 44 tenant families during the famine years, earning him the nickname “Black Jack Adair.” Later owners were more benevolent, and eventually the estate was gifted to the Irish state, becoming a national park in 1986.
After the film, we were free to explore. I wandered through the castle, admiring its Victorian interiors, before heading into the gardens. From there, I followed a steep path (because apparently I can’t resist them) up to a lookout point. The climb was worth it – the views stretched across the lake and mountains, wild and windswept.
When it was time to return, I hopped on the shuttle back to the visitor center. And here’s where the day took a surreal turn: the shuttle driver had music playing, and the song was Golden from K‑Pop Demon Hunters. Ireland, castles, and K‑pop – because why not? Travel is nothing if not unpredictable.
Arrival in Donegal
By evening, we rolled into Donegal town. We checked into our hotel, dropped our bags, and later regrouped for dinner in the hotel restaurant. After a day of walking walls, climbing hills, and absorbing centuries of history, a warm meal with new friends was the perfect ending.
Reflections: Pop Culture Meets History
Looking back, this day felt like the perfect blend of my travel style: a little bit of pop culture (Derry Girls), a lot of history (Bloody Sunday, the Walled City), and a dash of the unexpected (K‑pop on a castle shuttle).
Traveling “solo‑ish” means I get to follow my own curiosities – like detouring for a mural photo or climbing a steep path just to see what’s at the top – but I also get to share meals and moments with a group. That balance is what makes these journeys so rich.
Derry gave me laughter and perspective. Glenveagh gave me beauty and fresh air. Donegal gave me rest. And together, they gave me another unforgettable chapter in this Irish adventure.
FAQ: Visiting Derry, Glenveagh, and Donegal
Is Derry worth visiting? Absolutely. Between the intact city walls, the murals, and the history of The Troubles, Derry offers a mix of culture, education, and charm.
What is Glenveagh National Park known for? It’s famous for its rugged landscapes, Victorian castle, and lush gardens. It’s also a haven for wildlife, including the golden eagle.
How long should you spend in Derry? A half‑day walking tour plus a few hours of free time is enough to see the highlights, but you could easily spend longer exploring.
Is Donegal a good base for exploring Ireland? Yes. Donegal is known for its cozy town center, castle, and as a gateway to the wild beauty of northwest Ireland.
View more highlights from the trip. Click to expand the images.
Solo-ish Journeys 
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