Previously on my solo‑ish Ireland adventure: waterfalls, whiskey at noon, and one very soggy pair of jeans in Donegal. If you missed that post, it’s worth a read to see how the chaos and charm of this trip has progressed. But whether you’ve been following along from the start or you’re just joining me now, welcome! My last entry ended with me settling into the rhythm of group travel – hotel breakfasts, winding bus rides, and the thrill of discovering something new each day. This post picks up right where we left off, with a day trip to Achill Island: a windswept gem off the coast of County Mayo where history, myth, and modern Irish life all collide.
Breakfast, Bridges, and the Perfect Irish Coffee
The day began like so many others on this trip: breakfast at the hotel, fueling up for whatever adventure lay ahead. But today felt different. We were headed to Achill Island, the largest of Ireland’s offshore islands, connected to the mainland by a bridge.
Before crossing, our group stopped at a visitor center that doubled as a restaurant and hotel. It was here that I had my first proper Irish coffee. Now, I’ve had Irish coffee before, but this was the real deal – served in Ireland, by someone who knew the tradition.
Here’s the thing: you’re not supposed to stir it. The cream floats on top, and the idea is to sip the hot coffee through the cool cream. Of course, no one will scold you if you stir, but I decided to follow the local rules. The result? A layered experience of flavors – the cold cream against the hot, strong coffee, the sweetness at the bottom where the sugar had melted, and yes, the generous splash of whiskey. I even made a note in my travel journal: “They were not greedy with the whiskey.” That line still makes me laugh.
Touring Achill Island: Hydrangeas, History, and Sheep
With caffeine and whiskey warming us, we boarded the bus and crossed the bridge onto Achill Island. Our local guide was a treasure trove of knowledge, weaving together history, folklore, and personal anecdotes.
One of the first things I noticed – and couldn’t stop noticing – was the abundance of hydrangeas. They seemed to bloom everywhere, splashes of blue and pink against the rugged green landscape. It felt like Ireland had decided to decorate itself for our arrival.
Our first stop was a graveyard dating back to the 800s. Perched by the water, it was hauntingly beautiful. Here, we learned the story of St. Dymphna, a young woman who fled to Ireland in the 7th century to escape her father’s violence. She became a symbol of protection for those suffering from mental illness, and her story is still honored today. Standing among gravestones that had weathered over a thousand years, I felt the weight of history pressing close.
At the entrance, our guide pointed out stone crosses embedded in the wall – originals from the 800s. Imagine touching something carved more than a millennium ago. It was one of those moments where time collapses, and you realize just how young your own story is compared to the land beneath your feet.
Coastal Views and a Sheep Standoff
From there, we wound our way along the coast, stopping at lookout points that seemed to stretch forever. At one stop, I spotted sheep grazing near the cliffs and thought it would be a great idea to get closer for a photo. Let me assure you: cliffs in Ireland are deceiving. What looks like a short stroll is actually a much longer trek, and the sheep wanted nothing to do with me. I stayed well back from the true edge, don’t worry, but I did get a few shots that captured the wild beauty of the island.
Grace O’Malley: The Pirate Queen of Ireland
Our guide also introduced us to the legend of Grace O’Malley (Gráinne Mhaol), the infamous Pirate Queen of the 16th century. Born into a powerful seafaring family, she commanded fleets, negotiated with Queen Elizabeth I, and defied every expectation of her time. Grace ruled the seas around Achill and Clew Bay, and her story is one of resilience, cunning, and unapologetic leadership. Her legend came alive against the backdrop of the Atlantic, as if the ocean itself still echoed her strength.
Lunch at The Beehive
By midday, we were ready for a break, and our bus pulled into The Beehive, a cozy restaurant that managed to feel both efficient and homey. The food was hearty and delicious, and the attached shop offered everything from local crafts to Achill Island sea salt.
Since I’d finished eating before the rest of the group, I slipped outside to enjoy the sunshine. The wind off the water was brisk, but with my jacket zipped up, I was perfectly content to sit and listen to the waves. It was one of those small, quiet moments of travel that stays with you just as much as the big sights.
The Deserted Village
Our final stop on Achill was the Deserted Village, also known as Slievemore. Rows of stone cottages stretch across the hillside, remnants of a community abandoned during the mid-19th century, likely due to the Great Famine. Walking among the ruins, it’s easy to imagine the rhythms of daily life that once filled this place. The silence now feels both haunting and deeply reflective – a quiet reminder of resilience and survival.
Evening in Town: Pubs and Live Music
After saying goodbye to our guide, we returned to the hotel with the evening free. I made a quick grocery run to stock up on snacks (including local sea salt, of course) and then joined some fellow travelers for a night out.
Here’s the thing about Irish pubs: there are so many of them, and each has its own character. Our first stop was nearly empty, which we later learned was because we were too early – Irish nightlife starts later than you’d think. So we moved on to a larger, livelier pub where live music filled the air.
We managed to snag two seats near the musicians, and for a while, I was completely immersed in the experience: a harp, guitar, and an accordion raised in song, and the hum of conversation all around. It was the Ireland I’d imagined, and it didn’t disappoint.
Later, we wandered to a quieter pub, met up with more of our group, and enjoyed the slower pace. Eventually, though, my energy gave out, and I bowed out gracefully, heading back to the hotel while others carried on. Sometimes, the best souvenir is a good night’s sleep.
Recipe: Traditional Irish Coffee
Since this day began with Irish coffee, it feels only right to end with it. Here’s a recipe you can try at home:
Ingredients
- 1 cup freshly brewed hot coffee
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 1 ½ ounces Irish whiskey
- Heavy cream, lightly whipped
Instructions
- Pour hot coffee into a warmed glass mug.
- Stir in the brown sugar until dissolved.
- Add the Irish whiskey and stir gently.
- Float the cream on top by pouring it slowly over the back of a spoon.
- Do not stir – sip the hot coffee through the cool cream.
Sláinte!
FAQ: Visiting Achill Island
Where is Achill Island located? Achill Island is off the west coast of County Mayo, Ireland, connected to the mainland by the Michael Davitt Bridge.
How do you get to Achill Island? Most visitors arrive by car or bus from towns like Westport or Castlebar. Guided tours are also popular.
What is Achill Island known for? Achill is famous for its dramatic cliffs, Blue Flag beaches, the Deserted Village, and its connection to Grace O’Malley, the Pirate Queen.
When is the best time to visit Achill Island? Summer offers the best weather, but spring and fall provide fewer crowds and equally stunning views.
Can you stay overnight on Achill Island? Yes! There are hotels, B&Bs, and self-catering cottages available for those who want to linger longer.
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